Cacti, Canyon Trails & a Different Side of the Desert: A West Texas Day Trip from Alpine

Just 23 miles from Alpine Bed and Breakfast, the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center & Botanical Gardens offers one of the best places in West Texas to experience just how varied this landscape really is.

The Nature Center is operated by the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute (CDRI). It encompasses 507 acres right in the foothills of the Davis Mountains. On-site, you’ll find more than five miles of hiking trails, an 18-acre fenced Botanical Gardens area, and an extraordinary cactus collection. They also feature local geological formations, wildlife habitats, and indoor exhibits detailing the region’s history. At an elevation of approximately 5,100 feet, even a walk here may be a little different from the desert experience you imagine.

It’s well worth the short drive.

First Stop: the Botanical Gardens

You don’t have to be a serious hiker to enjoy CDRI. The Botanical Gardens are a destination in their own right, with paths winding among native plants, pollinator gardens, grasses and volcanic rock formations. The half-mile Trans-Pecos Natives garden path features nearly 165 species native to the region, grouped by plant family and individually labeled. The Native Grasses Exhibit includes 26 species of grasses found throughout the Trans-Pecos, while the Pollinator Garden provides a closer look at the relationship between native plants and the butterflies, bees and other pollinators that depend on them.

Continue beyond the Pollinator Garden and you’ll reach an overlook before connecting with the Scenic Vista Loop, an easy quarter-mile trail around a volcanic rock outcrop. It’s a good choice for visitors who want beautiful views without committing to one of CDRI’s more challenging hikes.

Inside the Cactus Greenhouse

One of our favorite stops at CDRI is the Maxie Templeton Cactus Museum Collection. The greenhouse holds roughly 2,000 specimens, covering about 200 different species of cacti and succulents. CDRI calls it one of the largest collections of its kind in the world. Honestly, you can’t appreciate the sheer scale of it until you walk through the door. Some specimens are immediately recognizable. Others look almost nothing like what you might expect to find in a desert.

CDRI’s work with the collection and Botanical Gardens has also received international attention. In May 2025, the gardens were selected as Hortis Garden of the Month, and CDRI was later one of four gardens worldwide selected for Hortis’ Community 2025, A Year in Bloom.

We recently walked through the collection ourselves. Take a look:

Finding the Right Trail

If you want more than a garden stroll, bring sturdy shoes, a hiking stick, and plenty of water. CDRI has more than five miles of trails, and you can choose anything from a short walk to a much more strenuous desert hike.

Modesta Canyon

The 1.75-mile Modesta Canyon Trail is our favorite. It’s rated moderate to strenuous and descends approximately 200 feet into a sheltered canyon. This is where the landscape completely shifts. Suddenly, you’re surrounded by trees. A year-round natural spring feeds a lush riparian habitat here. If you look closely at the small pools, you’ll spot tree frogs, salamanders, and crayfish. It’s a stunning contrast to the desert above.

Clayton’s Overlook

For the view, head toward Clayton’s Overlook. The 1.5-mile moderate hike climbs approximately 220 feet and ends with a 360-degree view of the surrounding Davis Mountains landscape. At the top, an interpretive geology exhibit identifies the mountains you can see and explains how the formations developed.

Outside Loop

Want more of a workout? The 2.5-mile Outside Loop is rated strenuous and combines several of CDRI’s highlights, including Modesta Canyon, Lion’s Head Hill, a view of a rhyolite quarry and Clayton’s Overlook. It’s the trail to choose if hiking is going to be the main event of your morning.

Upper Loop

The Upper Loop Trail is a moderate half-mile hike through a variety of native grasses. It’s a useful middle ground if you want more than the easy garden trails but aren’t looking for the commitment of Modesta Canyon or the Outside Loop.

Whichever route you choose, remember the elevation. CDRI advises visitors to wear sturdy shoes, bring a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water, and take their time on trails that can include uneven terrain and loose rock.

There’s More Than Hiking and Gardens

Allow some time for the exhibits, too. The Mining Heritage Exhibit explores the mining history of the region and includes a replica late-19th-century mine. The Geological Timeline traces more than two billion years of regional geology, while the Bird Blind features a 30-foot water feature that attracts birds and other wildlife.

There are exhibits inside the Powell Visitor Center as well, along with a gift shop that is especially good for books about the Chihuahuan Desert and the natural history of West Texas.

In Summer, Go Early. Really Early.

Here’s one of our favorite ideas for summer visitors: Too Early Tuesdays. On Tuesdays, CDRI opens its gates at sunrise, allowing visitors to get onto the trails or stroll through the gardens before the heat of the day. The early visits are self-guided.

If you’re staying at Alpine Bed and Breakfast, an early start doesn’t mean you have to skip breakfast. With at least 24 hours’ notice, we can prepare an Early Morning To-Go Breakfast and place it in the guest fridge the afternoon before. Grab it in the morning and head toward Fort Davis while the desert is waking up. It’s an especially good way to tackle Modesta Canyon, Clayton’s Overlook or the Outside Loop during the warmer months.

Always call ahead to confirm that Too Early Tuesdays will be offered during your visit. The program can be seasonal, and although CDRI currently mentions sunrise Tuesday openings on its website, those extended hours may not appear in Google’s hours of operation.

Visiting in August? Check the Date for CDRI’s Annual BBQ & Auction

If you’re planning an August trip to West Texas, the annual BBQ & Auction Fundraiser is held on the second Saturday in August. The fundraiser includes a BBQ dinner along with silent and live auctions and is an opportunity to support the nonprofit organization behind the Nature Center. Check CDRI’s website to purchase tickets in advance. Tickets are very limited, so this is one event you’ll want to plan for rather than discover after you arrive.

Make a Day of It: CDRI to Balmorhea

You could easily return to Alpine after your morning at CDRI. But especially during the warmer months, we have another suggestion. Keep going.

From the Fort Davis area, Balmorhea State Park is roughly another half-hour drive through beautiful mountain passes and open land, making it easy to combine a morning of hiking and desert gardens with an afternoon in the cool, clear water.

On your way, pull over in Fort Davis to grab lunch at Stone Village Market. It’s a great little natural-food grocery with a full deli, fresh sandwiches, and plenty of quick sides that pack well for a picnic. If you haven’t tried their Cranberry/Almond Chicken Salad yet, order it. Trust us. Stone Village calls it its signature dish, and it has been featured in books, magazines, television and newspapers. Grab some of their house-baked bread, some sides like broccoli salad, and don’t forget the fresh-baked cookies, and you’ll be set for a picnic at Balmorhea State Park. Outside food and drink is allowed in the park (no glass or alcohol), so you can enjoy your lunch before or after your swim.

Then continue on to Balmorhea.

Swim in the World’s Largest Spring-Fed Swimming Pool

In the middle of the West Texas desert is a 1.3-acre, crystal-clear swimming pool fed continuously by the San Solomon Springs. And this is not just any swimming pool. Texas Parks & Wildlife identifies the pool at Balmorhea State Park as the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool.The water reaches depths of 25 feet, holding a massive 3.5 million gallons. But here is the craziest stat: over 15 million gallons of fresh spring water pump through the pool every single day. Because it’s spring-fed, the temperature hovers between 72 and 76°F year-round. On a hot summer afternoon, it feels wonderfully cool and refreshing. During cooler weather, that same water can feel surprisingly comfortable compared with the chilly air around it.

Swimming isn’t the only reason to look around. Balmorhea also protects desert wetlands known as cienegas, which provide habitat for fish, birds and other wildlife.

One important tip: reserve your day pass. Balmorhea State Park frequently reaches capacity on weekends, holidays, school breaks and even summer weekdays. Texas Parks & Wildlife recommends purchasing a day pass online before making the drive. Visitors without advance passes are admitted only if the park hasn’t reached capacity.

Don’t leave this part of your day to chance.

One Very Good West Texas Day

There’s no need to race through it. Leave Alpine early with breakfast to go. Spend the morning exploring the Botanical Gardens and Cactus Museum Collection at Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center & Botanical Gardens. Choose a trail based on how much hiking or walking you want to do. Stop at Stone Village Market for lunch or a picnic to go. Then spend the warmest part of the afternoon swimming in the clear spring water at Balmorhea State Park.

Afterward, head back to Alpine.

That’s a pretty remarkable day, and it’s all within easy reach of Alpine Bed and Breakfast.

Plan Your Visit

The Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center & Botanical Gardens is located four miles southeast of Fort Davis on Highway 118. Regular hours are Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with a sunrise opening on Tuesdays. The Nature Center is closed Sundays. Current adult admission is $6.50, and children 12 and under are admitted free. Hours, admission and special events can change, so check CDRI’s website before you leave Alpine.

Plan your visit to the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center & Botanical Gardens

If you’re adding Balmorhea to your day, purchase your state park day pass in advance.

Check Balmorhea State Park information and day-pass availability

Make Alpine Your Home Base

Ready to explore the Chihuahuan Desert, hike the Davis Mountains and cool off in the spring-fed waters at Balmorhea? Stay at Alpine Bed and Breakfast and enjoy a comfortable home base for your West Texas adventures, along with chef-inspired breakfast each morning or an Early Morning To-Go Breakfast when the trail is calling.

Come stay with us!

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Contact Us

For more information or to inquire about availability, please contact us at:

Phone: (432) 538-7032
Email: innkeeper@alpinetxbnb.com
Website: www.alpinetxbnb.com

We look forward to welcoming you to Alpine Bed and Breakfast, where unforgettable memories are made.

Sharon & Tom
Alpine Bed and Breakfast